5-10 days
Payments
Beschreibung
Beschreibung
Fiberon™ PA12-CF10: kohlefaserverstärktes PA12 für anspruchsvolle Drucke (früher PolyMide™ PA12-CF)
Mechanische Festigkeit und Formstabilität auf Profi-Niveau
Fiberon™ PA12-CF10 ist ein kohlefaserverstärktes Filament aus langkettigem Copolyamid (PA12) für anspruchsvolle Anwendungen in Industrie und Technik. Mit 10 % Kohlefaseranteil liefert es herausragende mechanische Festigkeit, Steifigkeit und Wärmebeständigkeit, ideal für Teile, die Langlebigkeit, Präzision und minimalen Verzug erfordern.
Geringe Feuchtigkeitsempfindlichkeit
Dank seiner fortschrittlichen chemischen Struktur nimmt Fiberon™ PA12-CF10 deutlich weniger Feuchtigkeit auf als PA6/66- und PA6-basierte Materialien. Das sorgt für gleichbleibende Maßhaltigkeit und mechanische Eigenschaften, auch in feuchter Umgebung.
Besser als herkömmliches PA12
Fiberon™ PA12-CF10 übertrifft herkömmliche PA12-basierte Filamente bei Festigkeit und Hitzebeständigkeit und ist damit eine zuverlässige Lösung für Funktionsprototypen, Endanwendungen und Fertigungswerkzeuge.
Warp-free™-Technologie
Dieses Filament nutzt die Warp-free™-Technologie für hervorragende Formstabilität und minimalen Verzug, auch bei großen oder komplexen Drucken.
Gleichbleibende Qualität
Fiberon™ PA12-CF10 basiert auf derselben bewährten Rezeptur wie PolyMide™ PA12-CF, kann aber in einem etwas dunkleren Schwarzton drucken.
Setz auf Fiberon™ PA12-CF10, wenn du ein Filament brauchst, das hohe Festigkeit, geringe Feuchtigkeitsempfindlichkeit und hervorragende Formstabilität für anspruchsvollen 3D-Druck in Technik und Industrie vereint.
Fiberon™ PA12-CF10 basiert auf derselben bewährten Rezeptur wie PolyMide PA12-CF, kann aber in einem etwas dunkleren Schwarzton drucken als sein Vorgänger.
Druckanforderungen
Druckeinstellungen
Druckeinstellungen
Fiberon™ PA12-CF10
- Lowest Moisture Absorption
- High Strength & Heat Resistance
- Warp-Free™ Technology -
- Ready to Print -
Fiberon™ PA12-CF10 - Black / Neue Verpackung / 0,5 kg ist nachbestellt und wird versendet, sobald es wieder auf Lager ist.
Technische Daten
Alles, was du vor dem Druck wissen musst
- Use a wear-resistant nozzle, such as hardened steel or ruby, because the carbon-fiber reinforcement is abrasive.
- Store and print under dry conditions (relative humidity below 20%); dry at 100°C for 10 hours before use.
- Use a 40-50°C build plate, and turn the cooling fan OFF; an actively heated chamber is not required.
- If the material is used as its own support, remove the support before excessive moisture absorption to avoid permanent bonding.
- Anneal at 100°C for 16 hours when the annealed performance stated in the current TDS is required.
| Property | X-Y | Z | Value | Method |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Density | — | — | 1.06 g/cm³ Important | ISO 1183 |
| Tensile strength | 77.4 MPa Important | 52.2 MPa Important | — | ISO 527 |
| Elongation at break | 4.2 % Important | 5 % Important | — | ISO 527 |
| Bending strength | 112.4 MPa Important | 69.8 MPa Important | — | ISO 178 |
| Bending modulus | 2886.5 MPa Important | — | — | ISO 178 |
| Young's modulus | 3311.2 MPa Important | 1806.6 MPa Important | — | ISO 527 |
| Charpy, unnotched | — | 27.6 KJ/m² Important | — | ISO 179 |
| Charpy, notched | 9.9 KJ/m² Important | — | — | ISO 179 |
| Melting temperature | — | — | 171 °C Important | ISO 11357 |
| Glass transition temperature (Tg) | — | — | 55 °C Important | ISO 11357 |
| Vicat softening temperature | — | — | 170.2 °C Important | ISO 306 |
Getestet an Prüfkörpern mit 100 % Infill. X-Y = quer zu den Schichten, Z = zwischen den Schichten (Schichthaftung).
Häufige Fragen
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What is annealing?
What is moisture conditioning?
Should I anneal before or after moisture conditioning?
Why do you use such a low build plate temperature with your nylons?
Will the spools work in an AMS?
Can you offer 1KG Fiberon™ Spool Options?
Customers praised this carbon fiber filament as "very easy to print" with "very smooth" surface finish. Reviews highlight exceptional strength and durability, ideal for functional parts and RC applications. While "very pricey," customers consistently said "you get what you pay for." Note: requires proper drying due to moisture sensitivity.
For RC airplane parts this is the strongest filament that won’t shatter on a rough landing.
First time trying to print PA/CF and this stuff has been so much easier than I expected. Far exceeded my expectations and dang if the prints don't look awesome. Picture is literally my first test print. Amazing stuff, will absolutely buy again and now want to try the different versions.0.6mm Hardened Steel Nozzle290C hotend 50C bed (only first layer, then down to 35C)NO part cooling (I even removed the shroud to be sure)No enclosurePrinting from filament drier @65C
Very easy to print. Surface finish is very smooth.
Works and prints well, better with no support on the Bambu.
This material is great. Very easy to print. The provided stock profile preformed amazing. No warping and dimension held to the cad model. our part is holdingup very well in production.
Great filament very strong durable and easy to print with the right settings
I thought it printed quite easily compared to CarbonX HTN-CF. Less nozzle drip at similar temps and it is more responsive to processing temperatures when tuning for strength or toughness at desired layers. Works well as a break off support material when processed at higher temperatures due to degradation driven embrittlement. Very versatile filament.
This filament is very pricey; I figure it's around 5X+ the price of most filaments! But, as the old saying goes, "you get what you pay for!", which definitely applies in this case. In the past 4 years, I've printed THOUSANDS of items, most personally-designed, and I've used over a HUNDRED spools of filament such as PC, PLA, TPU, ABS, Nylon, Carbon fiber PC and PETG, etc. Lots of brands, lots of types. I'm a 74 year old retired Engineer, and LOVE to design and print 3D stuff. And, I'm NOT talking about 'trinkets, models and masks' either!!! I'm talking real tools and hardware,....real-world, "it's gotta be TOUGH" stuff! I've recently had to design and built the TOUGHEST thing I've ever printed, a one-to-two blades adapter for my edger. After at least a 10 versions, I finally came up with an 'elegant' design, but the plain Nylon I was using wasn't cutting it. Just too much warpage and dimensional instability. So, after reading the review by Tonia, I decided to give this filament a try. OK, I'll cut to the chase....If you need something TOUGH, something that does not warp, something that prints BEAUTIFULLY, and looks BEAUTIFUL, look no further. Hands down the best filament I've ever, ever used. And, I'm talking about ALL filaments I've used! VERY Pricey. BUT, "You get what you pay for"! And, for all you Polymaker folks who were part of developing this filament: GOOD JOB, VERY WELL DONE!!!! Starting first layer temp at 260 C. Bed at 50. Then up to 280 C for layers 2+, same bed temp. NO FAN, EVER!!! Enclosed. PRUSA MK3S+, Textured Utilistik bed. Elmer's Purple on bed. Perfect prints. If your print has to be absolutely perfect and strong, this is the filament! Worth every penny.
Expensive, but it prints well.
wonderful right out of the box, usually you have to dry this stuff. Prints very clean, no warping
This is my favorite filament for things that need to be relatively stiff and take impact. It also does really well under high temps. I print at 300c with low cooling. This is VERY hydroscopic. right out of the bag, it prints really cleanly with no oozing but a even a day in with my heated dry box aesthetics start to suffer. That's just the nature of true PA6.I highly recommend for 2a
So Prusaslicer doesn't have a Polyamide profile. So I made one based on Fiberlogy Nylon PA12. Then I changed the bed temp to 50c both first layer and others. That's all.My second thing I did after reviewing was make a dry box. I dried the filament to 10% humidity.I bought this filament to print replacement parts for my Prusa MK3 Hotend. I have tried printing with nylon in the past and it turned out BAD! But polymaker says "PA12" has a less humidity problem so I bought this roll. Also there was a huge sale!So its been a while to make my dry box and I printed the hotend parts. WOW its so beautiful!!! If this didn't cost so much I would print a ton with it!!! The pictures people show don't do it justice! It doesn't even feel like the other plastics I have printed. I am debating of replacing every part on my printer just to have that look! but should I... I am going to print another hotend set just in case of problems in a few years. Sadly It only comes with .5kg so half a roll. I think this will go fast just to print parts for my printer. Oh well. worth it!
